Kiwame Tokyo's latest collection, the KUBO, is a testament to the brand's commitment to Japanese design philosophy. The watch's identity is centered around the abstract concept of 'kubo', a recessed space or hollow, whose beauty lies in the shadows and atmosphere it creates. This subtle approach is reflected in every aspect of the watch, from the lacquered dial to the carefully proportioned case. The KUBO is not just a watch; it's an experience that invites you to notice the seemingly simple details that gradually reveal themselves.
One of the most striking features of the KUBO is its case design. Measuring 37mm across and 10.7mm thick, it strikes a balance between dress-watch elegance and field-watch practicality. The vertically brushed flat bezel adds a touch of visual toughness, while the polished surfaces and glossy dial maintain a refined look. The domed sapphire crystal not only supports the watch's 30-meter water resistance rating but also amplifies the reflections across the lacquered dial, creating a visually stunning effect.
The dial of the KUBO is a masterpiece in itself. Multiple layers of lacquer create a rich, glossy surface topped by Breguet-style applied Arabic numerals and broad syringe-style hands. The three colorways - TETSUKON, USUKI, and SAKURA - each develop the theme of the recessed small-seconds display in different directions. TETSUKON pairs a rich navy tone with the lacquer finish, shifting dramatically with light. USUKI offers a warmer personality with an ivory lacquer dial inspired by traditional Japanese interiors. SAKURA, on the other hand, is a conversation piece with its soft pink lacquer and subtle cherry blossom motif in the recessed seconds display.
Inside the KUBO lies the Miyota 82S5 automatic movement, offering approximately 42 hours of power reserve while beating at 21,600 Vph. This movement provides a solid, dependable choice that keeps the watch accessible while providing the characteristic off-center small-seconds layout. The strap, made of Italian calf leather, complements the watch's understated personality without competing for attention. The neutral colors ensure each dial remains the visual focus, with subtle variations in stitch color giving each watch a distinctive character.
In my opinion, Kiwame Tokyo has once again successfully translated Japanese ideas into original watch design. The KUBO is not just a watch; it's a statement of the brand's commitment to its philosophy. The recessed small-seconds display is not just a stylistic flourish; it's the organizing principle for the entire watch, influencing everything from the lacquer finish to the case proportions. The result is a design that feels cohesive, supported by thoughtful details throughout. The KUBO collection sits in a fiercely competitive segment of the microbrand market, but it stands out with its clearly defined design philosophy and distinctive visual identity.
Personally, I find the KUBO collection particularly fascinating because it challenges the notion that Japanese design is merely a copy of Swiss formulas. Kiwame Tokyo has developed a recognizable identity by translating distinctly Japanese ideas into genuinely original watch design. The KUBO is a confident step along that path, and I believe it will continue to inspire and captivate watch enthusiasts around the world.
